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Period Patterns number 51, Early Tudor Woman's gowns,
c. 1490-1535, includes patterns for 5 gowns (sizes 6-20).
Period
Patterns nos. 52, 90, 92 and
93 go exceptionally well with this pattern.
Period Patterns number 53, Early Tudor Men's
Garments,
c. 1495-1537, contains patterns for 3
gowns, 3 skirted doublets, 1 skirted jerkin, 2 skirtless doublets and 3
shirts (sizes 36-48).
This pattern goes with Period Pattern #43, 92, and
93.
[ Ordering Patterns ]
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The Tudor period marked the beginning
of the Renaissance in England,and fashion (especially after 1509)
reflected the change. Henry VII,who usurped the throne in
1485, was extremely frugal, and fashion changed slowly during his
reign. Henry VIII inherited the throne with a large treasury at
the age of 18, and the court blossomed. He was insecure,
aggressive, blatantly masculine and suddenly extremely rich. All of
which reflected in the opulent new fashions, especially for men.
During Henry's reign, styles for both sexes combined elements of German,
Spanish and Italian fashions, with heavy French influence overall.
The quintessence of what is usually thought of as "Tudor"
fashion is shown in view IV for men, and view V for women.
Women
As befitted their role in society, woman's fashions were somewhat
less flamboyant then the men's. The kirtle was almost identical
to a cotehardie (Period Patterns no. 21),
with the addition of cuffs. The skirts started to be cut separately
from the bodice, with the cut of the bodice neck line becoming square.
The adoption of tight corsets and Spanish farthingales
(Period Patterns #90) early in Henry VIII's
reign.The style developed into the silhouette of a small cone
inverted into a larger one. To allow more variety, the underskirt
and under sleeves we not sewn to the gown.
Men
During Henry VII's reign, the houpelande
(Period Patterns no. 26) became a robe
or gown, opening down the front, soon left unbelted and open.
This was worn over a skirted doublet, shirt and hose
(Period Patterns #43). Slashing
became popular, and the modest codpiece became a grotesque brag.
As Henry VIII aged he favored short full gowns to hide his increasing
bulk, thus creating a square silhouette.
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