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Period Patterns number 41, Women's Italian
Renaissance Gowns, c. 1470-1505, provides patterns for 7 gowns
& 1 tabard (sizes 8-18). Two have split skirts. underskirts,
and stomachers, to fake an underdress. The underskirts and stomachers can be left off, replaced by
a real underdress. Four of the
gown patterns have sleeves that tie on.
This pattern goes well
with Period Patterns no. 90, 92 and
93.
Period Patterns number 43, Men's Italian Renaissance
Garments, c. 1420-1500, contains patterns for 3 shirts, 3 hose,
2 codpieces, a tabard and a cioppa or gown (sizes 36-48 included).
These
garments are complimented by Period Patterns no. 26,
92, 93, 101, and
102.
[ Ordering Patterns ]
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The Renaissance of the 15th and 16th centuries began in politically
splintered Italy. The age was humanistic, like the people
themselves; the clothing was individualistic, competitive, even
playful. While there were broad similarities, regional variations
were the norm.
Women
F ashion for woman changed radically after 1460.
Evolving from the houpelande (Period Patterns #26), the bodice was
cut separately from the skirt, above the natural waist, and became tight
fitting. Skirts could be gathered or pleated or neither.
They were often split in front to show the skirt of a sleeveless
underdress,
which could also show under a V-neck. The chemise
(Period Patterns no 90), decorated or not,
also often showed at the neck. The sleeves could be slashed to
show the chemise sleeve , and were often laced or tied to the bodice,
rather than sewn on. This allowed different sets of sleeves to
be worn with one gown. A sleeveless tabard was occasionally
worn over the gown.
Men
Men's fashions began to evolve around 1420. The cotehardie
(Period Patterns #23) became the
doublet, first cut with a waist seam, then rapidly shortening to
waist length. Sleeves were often tied or laced on, and a
sleeveless underdoublet was sometimes worn as well. This was worn
over a shirt. The houpelande
(Period Patterns #26) became a robe
or gown opening down the front, worn open or shut, and often belted.
A tabard could be worn instead of the robe, and young men often wore
the doublet alone. Separate hose leggings, tied to the doublet
or underdoublet, became joined at the back, and modest codpieces were
worn to cover the opening in front.
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