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Period Pattern 23

Period Patterns™ number 23
Men's Cotehardies
c. 1340-142
 
Contains patterns for 5 cotehardies and three hoods (sizes 36-48).
 
These go particularly well with Period Patterns™ 26, 92, 93, and 101
 
Cotehardies were  worn by both sexes of all ages and classes for over 200 years, from England to Bohemia, Norway to Spain.  While there were regional variations, the basic cut of the cotehardie was the same throughout Europe.  Originally a version of the tunic (Period Patterns #16), cotehardies differed in sleeve cut, variations, and tailor fit.  Men's cotehardies, worn long or short, were initially tight to the hips, with long tight sleeves.  They were worn over a shirt (Period Patterns™ 43) and hose (Period Patterns™ 101), often with hoods.  In the first half of the 14th century a major style change occurred.  With the invention of curved sleeve caps, gussets under the arm became unnecessary.  Puffed chests and full sleeves became fashionable on men's cotehardies by 1350.
 
Sleeveless tunics or surcoats (from the French "sur le cote", i.e. over the cotehardie) were worn by both sexes as early as the 12th century, but with the return of crusaders from the Holy Land the style became wildly popular.  The armholes deepened to the waist, then to the hip.
 
Surcoats and cotehardies for both sexes could be plain and somber, or wildly colorful.  Heraldic motifs were common on these garments.  Both sexes began wearing houpelandes (Period Patterns™ 26) over a cotehardie after 1380.  Cotehardies and surcoats as outerwear became unfashionable before 1425.  Men's cotehardies evolved into the doublet (Period Patterns™ 43 & 53).
 
Comments we've received on this pattern:
I love your patterns – the documentation is truly second to none.  I’ve made all my cotehardies out of it.”  Marc L, 2006

 
 
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